Chinese craft beer: a (short) overview
Above: China’s most popular beer, Tsing Tao, and a selection from the first Chinese craft brewery, Young Master.
While the most popular beer export to the US is Tsing Tao lager, the Chinese beer market is dominated by five main “industrial” breweries, most of which are in the style of a light lager. While some of these breweries have latched onto the trend of IPAs, the ubiquity of the light lager style has led the rise of micro/craft breweries. The first true Chinese craft breweries started production in 2015, with a modest half million hectoliters; compare this to a brewery like Budweiser—585 million hectoliters in 2023, or the entire US craft beer industry, which produced around 194 million hectoliters in 2022.
Why now?
As consumers taste change (and let’s be honest, as the younger generation seeks to distance themselves from the habits of the older generation), craft brewers have begun production of styles that are uncommon, which most of the tradtional breweries eschew. As I mentioned, IPAs are popular, but the “trendier” styles, such as sours, black lagers, and spiced beers have entered the market.
What to try?
If you’ve already had Tsing Tao, you have a great idea about what the traditional Chinese palate wants. Light, crisp, and easy to pound. Inoffensive. Think of the kind of beer you liked at parties in high school—goes with everything, whether a night out clubbing, a dinner party, or after work with colleagues. However, if you want something more adventurous, you could try Tsing Tao IPA, or jump into the craft scene. Young Master, the self proclaimed “first Chinese craft brewery” has several interesting, yet accessible, styles. A personal favorite is Young Master Jade Scorpion (although this was created exclusively for the US market, it is delicious), a Pilsner brewed with green Sichuan peppercorns. Master Gao also has several amazing styles, including a puffed rice ale that rivals Mexican lagers in its ability to refresh. Unfortunately, most of these are hard to find, but are worth seeking out.
What to pair with?
This one is easy—good company, and perhaps some salty, spicy snacks. You can’t go wrong!